a satiny, black coat, shiny nostrils and a brawny body made up of 100 percent pure Wagyu meat – the breeding bull Abramovich from Abermule is an incredibly massive animal. This powerful fellow with the proud Russian name is the jewel of Ifor Humphreys’ herd in northern Wales. This bull has it good. In the lush pastures of the hilly countryside that are as bright green as Asian rice paddies after a monsoon, Abramovich is able to inseminate his cows naturally – without technological aids. “He’s a credit to his name,” says breeder Humphreys, proudly adding: “He can easily handle 40 cows.” Per season, of course.