It's worth reminding oneself that, for a long time, cooks with three Michelin stars were the rock stars of the food scene. They had halos on a par with fashion designers; they were courted like celebrities and renowned for their eccentricity. Their reputation and success were dependent on their awards, which were lent to them for their exquisite delicacies by restaurant guides such as the Michelin Guide or Gault&Millau – the arbiters of good taste. Anyone they awarded top marks to was celebrated as a supernova in the skies of culinary indulgence.